From Chef to Farmer Advocate: A journey of Resilience, reflections and Food Safety
I consider myself a farmer advocate. Every chef worth their weight should be one, too. For the lack of better terminology, the past two years have been challenging. I walked away from a corporate job during COVID to open a restaurant, only to leave it a year later. Starting my own business, I had to close it due to the loss of my sister-in-law to COVID-19. We packed up our house and moved to the west coast of Florida. My life resembles the top country song on the charts right now. You might be thinking, "You didn't mention your dogs." I hesitated to share that our dogs crossed the rainbow bridge soon after my sister-in-law's passing. So yes, my life feels like a country song hit. Despite the challenges, the resilient human spirit prevails. I refuse to give up, for I have learned that time is our most precious asset.
I was raised near where Florida once boasted the world's best oranges. I grew up surrounded by farmers tending to cows and crops, with the ocean to the east.
Recently, I was shocked to discover that the United States ranks ninth in the world for food safety, on par with France. On September 2, 2023, the USDA recalled 15,000 pounds of sausage. The following day, the FDA recalled over 5,000 pounds of dog food contaminated with Salmonella. On September 5, 2023, the USDA recalled 245,000 pounds of frozen chicken contaminated with plastic. The blinking cursor urges me to share this story. How can we not be outraged? It's not enough to applaud catching these issues; they should never have occurred. COVID-19 taught me that we cannot blindly trust BIG FOOD or the complex logistics of our food sources. It's time to scrutinize where we buy our goods. Are they truly local? Are those green tomatoes from a massive industrial farm the best and most local option? Let's eliminate the middlemen. Consider this: consolidation diminishes our choices. The shrimp industry crisis from a few years back serves as a stark reminder. One infected shrimp jeopardized entire stocks. When I was young, Joe Z's Market and the kosher butcher across the street were culinary landmarks. Today, these individual establishments have given way to conglomerates, purportedly for our convenience. But true convenience lies in cooking from whole foods, a practice we've forsaken in our time-strapped lives. We opt for quick fixes like ten-minute rice, overlooking that modern pressure cookers can prepare rice perfectly in just 12 minutes. We're always "slammed," too busy to savor life's moments or prioritize our well-being.
What do you fear more, tainted beef or unwashed greens? Do you wash your chicken out of fear of foodborne illness or COVID-19? Our country's food safety ranking is not solely about restaurant kitchens but where they source their ingredients. The old adage "Get to know your farmer" holds true. When did you last visit a genuine farm where toil and passion yield the most flavorful, nutrient-dense produce? A bite of a sun-ripened, non-GMO tomato can be a revelatory experience. Its explosion of flavors invokes a sensory journey unlike any other. As a chef, stepping outside to harvest ingredients for dinner should be a cherished routine, not an afterthought buried under excuses of being "slammed." Reflect on the quality of what you put in; it directly impacts the quality of what you serve and the reviews you receive. In today's tech-driven world, there are no excuses for not embracing sustainable practices. If you find yourself dismissing this as "nonsense," consider that even a simple hydroponic setup can revolutionize your approach to sourcing ingredients. Instead of rushing to fast-food chains, visit a local farm. Learn from farmers' dedication and let them inspire you to reconnect with the land and its bounty. The only barrier is you.
I am taking meaningful steps by utilizing my hydroponic tower and cultivating leafy greens and other favorite foods. I am translating words into action, not to make a difference but to embody a difference in my food choices. By tending to my garden and composting food waste, I aim to provide my family and guests with safe, flavorful produce. To all the hardworking farmers out there, we owe you a debt of gratitude. Thank you for nourishing our bodies and souls. Growing your own vegetables allows you to infuse your meals with a passion for how you want to eat. Consumers hold immense power; let's start exercising it.
Cuban Sandwich Showdown: Tampa vs. Miami - A Culinary Journey of Tradition and Innovation.
So, which city is the better one? Which came first? What is the difference between the two? This story is almost like a good old-fashioned street gang fight, unlike "West Side Story" or the crips and bloods. It is somewhere in the middle. Let's start with which city owns the title and where it comes from. Tampa wins that. Ybor City, to be exact, holds that claim. Back in the day, Ybor was known for a thriving cigar community, and yup, you guessed it, a lot of people immigrated from Cuba. Can you think what they brought along with them, Cuban bread? Great Cuban bread is the stuff that one dreams about. Once pressed, the coating on the outside turns to this crispy, crackling crunch, and then your taste buds hit the airy, supple dough inside. Michael Manzo of Manzo's Subs in West Palm has always said, "If it weren't for my bread, I would not be in business." That is a compelling statement, as he has been in business for over thirty years. Cuban bread can be used for famous sandwiches/Medianoche, or have you ever dipped it in your café con leche? OMG NO, LIFE CHAGNING! The Bread is the best supporting actor in this food theater!
What could be the best actor, simply the proteins? Now, Tampa throws a curve ball into play. Usually, mojo pork/ham, but Tampa, they are overachievers; they throw in salami.
WHAT in the salami G-d's name is this fuckery! Simple, there was a large Italian community in Tampa, and what better way to show respect to a culture is to infuse your cuisine, to some extent? Some places in Tampa throw on lettuce, and some even throw tomatoes. Now, before you send me emails claiming it is a personal foul. That is sorcery, and tons of fuckery is afoot. I kid you not.
My problem is I was born in North Cuba, North Miami. I grew up in the "Scarface" period. I witnessed the cultural shift in Miami. I welcomed it with open arms. What better way to experience one's culture and history is to have the food from their home country? It all goes back to their passion for their food and culture. I remember I was twelve or maybe fourteen, and this restaurant was down from my parents' house. It was on 441 and Hayes Street in Hollywood; it was called Las Vegas. The family made that journey to start a better life, and all worked there. I ordered something this Jewish kid knew would be good: ham and pork. It wasn't good; it was LSD for me. I took one bite of that sandwich and was transported to this Matrix of a place. I saw, yes saw, the saltiness of the ham, the citrus of the pork, the tang of the pickles, that distinct flavor and stretch of the Swiss cheese, and then the piece de resistance the yellow mustard comes in with their flavor profile. I sat there, looked at the sandwich, and asked, "Where the hell have you been all my life!!!"
The issue is that I was raised on the east coast of Florida and now reside on the west coast of Florida. In my humble opinion, Tampa will never be the place for Cuban sandwiches because they do not offer a traditional version of a Cuban sandwich. Miami might be known for the largest group of Cuban influx into Florida, but they did not start the Cuban Sandwich. I think since the Miami Cubans did not add anything from a different culture, you are getting the most traditional one unless you go to Cuba.
Some do unique jobs on a Cuban sandwich. Couchon Butcher Shop in New Orleans is one such place. I went in about five or six years ago and was like, CUBAN, hold my beer. I tried it. It was so good. I called the chef when I got back to Florida and asked. I found out there were about sixteen ingredients in the thing.
For me, I like pushing the status quo. In school, I was always the student who asked why! I used to ask my mother so many questions that she used to ask me, "Why? Because it is a crooked letter!" In 2017, I started getting into smoking, not weed, smoking food. I researched it. I even took a master's class with Aaron Franklin. I now own three smokers, one grill, three refrigerators/freezer combos, and one stand-up freezer. One may say I have an obsession. Maybe a small one. I looked at the sandwich and thought, what would make this a Cuban Sandwich that is Craveable?
I started breaking down the components of the sandwich. I even looked at the Cuban bread. I based my reversed-engineered sandwich on the Miami version. How can I enhance the ham or the pork? I bourbon, brined the ham, and smoked it over cherrywood. I took the pork butt and developed a Latin spiced rub. I smoked that with pecan wood. I went after the condiments and thought about how and what would change this. Some places added mayo and yellow mustard, so Dijonnaise was out of the question. Swiss cheese, oh nay nay, let's upgrade to Gruyere. Pickles, dill, oh, how boring can we do something that excites the palate? I added guava paste to the mayo. I upgraded to stone ground mustard instead of yellow. I went with a semolina flour-based Cuban bread. For the pickles, I tried kimchi, birds-eye pepper, Thai chili even Scotch Bonnet; now that is exciting. Once they bit into it, I wanted my guests to say, "What just happened? What did he do to me? I need a moment!!!" I made it a point in my stage of this game called Life to cook the food I want, and I have no fucking apologies. I want craveable food. I live to eat!
Sunshine State Secrets: Unraveling Florida's Culinary Quirks & Conundrums!
I have to admit that, growing up in Florida, I never had that sense of "my home!" What do I mean by that? Simple, When people move from New York, for instance, they are diehard New Yorkers! When I traveled, I never thought saying I was from Florida was hip or Kool. I was actually embarrassed to tell people that I was from Florida. I mean, come on, zombie bath soap face-eating people! How about those "hangers" or "chads" from that election? What about all those "Florida man...did this" in the news?
As a chef, I have always wondered what Florida is known for besides the BSC! Hear me before you start blasting your emails about what is genuinely Florida. If I say cheese steak, what city instantly comes to mind? If I had to say deep-dish pizza, what city or cities would you say? Last one, how about redfish being blackened? I have always struggled to determine what Florida is known for regarding cuisine. Are we known for Key Lime Pie? Hell, do we even grow Key Limes in the State? If you do a Google search, you will find the University of Florida chimes in on the topic, which is quite eye-opening. "The Key lime was carried by the Arabs across North Africa into Spain and Portugal and was brought to the Americas by Spanish and Portuguese explorers in the early part of the sixteenth century (Ziegler and Wolfe 1961). The lime became naturalized throughout the Caribbean, the east coast of Mexico, Central America, tropical areas of South America, and the Florida Keys. Commercial production in Florida in Orange and Lake Counties was evident by 1883. Later, small commercial plantings occurred in the Florida Keys (~1913 to 1926) and Miami-Dade County (1970s to early 2000s). Today, there is little to no commercial Key lime production in Florida, although it remains a popular home landscape fruit tree.
Key limes are grown in warm subtropical and tropical regions. Major producing countries are India, Mexico, Egypt, and various countries in the West Indies." According to the website https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/CH092#. So, Key Limes was brought here rather than from Florida. Our quest marches forward. We are a peninsula surrounded by three sides of water. Our climate varies from Key West in the south and the Panhandle to the North. After living in this State for over fifty years, I discovered we have a peach season. Mind you, the peach season is as long as a brain fart.
I narrowed down my search on Google. I typed, "What is Florida cuisine?" and found a blogger with the answer. According to https://www.tastingtable.com/1218051/iconic-florida-foods-you-need-to-try/, here is what Florida cuisine is. Number one is Key lime pie - um, Key Limes are not even grown in Florida! Number two is the Cuban sandwich. Call me crazy, but the name states CUBAN, not FLORIDIAN. Number three, Stone Crab Claws, okay from Miami, used to be dirty food back in the day. Apalachicola Oysters comes in at number four. As a Floridian and a chef, I stay away from these guys as our waters are not the cleanest—number five lists pink shrimp as a Florida shrimp. I have to dive deep into this one.
Vannamei are a type of shrimp. They come from Indonesia and are, for me, flavorless. Pink Shrimp or Brown shrimp are "shrimpy" in flavor, and Florida is known for peel-and-eat shrimp loaded with butter and cajun spice. How does that make it Floridian cuisine? Fried Grouper sandwich or, as we know it, Grouper Rueben. It can be fried or grilled. The fish is commonly served on grilled rye bread with cole slaw, Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing. It is a swap-out sandwich. Take the sauerkraut from the OG Rueben and the corned beef, add the grouper and the slaw, and there you have it. How is that Floridian Cuisine? Sour Orange Pie comes in at number seven.
Let me know if you are from Florida and your grandmother made this pie. I have never heard of or seen this pie before! Now that I live on the West Coast, this is a Tarpon Springs thing, not a Florida thing, a Greek Salad with potato salad. Yes, there is a story of why, but I still don't understand it. The next one is a Manhattan Clam Chowder, not Minorcan Clam Chowder. This chowder is from St. Augustine, Florida, and adds the Datil pepper to it. It also comes from the Spanish colonization of Florida, so is it truly Florida? The Pan con Minuta - the fried fish sandwich, comes in at ten. Is this Florida cuisine?
Rum cake and conch fritters are next. Let me say that these two are NOT Florida at all! Fried gator bites, okay, maybe, but can't you get a gator Po boy in Nawlins? Rounding the bottom of this article, I am researching the following: The Frita Cubana, Guava Pastelito, Ceviche, and Dole Whip (what the hell is that). Let's take the last one because it is funny. Dole partnered with Disney in the 70s and developed this iconic drink for...wait for it, the tiki bar at, you guessed it, Disney Land. Wait, if my memory serves me correctly, Disney Land is in California, and Disney World is in Florida; how does that...
If you type in "What is Florida cuisine?" the first thing that pops up is a Wikipedia definition. It states, "Floribbean cuisine is a fusion cuisine found in Florida. It is influenced by Caribbean cuisine, Cuban cuisine, Jamaican cuisine, Puerto Rican cuisine, Haitian cuisine, and Bahamian cuisine." Growing up, I was blinded by the notion that my State had nothing to offer. I felt that my State provided nothing to the culinary world. If you think about where you would want to go on a culinary journey, is Florida one of the places you want to eat? It wasn't until recently that I figured out what the cuisine of my great State is. There is not one definitive answer that anyone can come up with. What I love about the cuisine of my State is that there is no clear-cut definition of our cuisine. Florida is a state that is transient at best. We have had such an influx of people from so many cultures that they have defined what Florida cuisine is.
When Florida was being developed, and the railroad was being built, we had an influx of slave labor, and with that came some incredible cuisines. Throughout Florida's rich history, we have had so many culinary defining moments, and I lived through one of the biggest and was so fortunate to be a part of it. The year was 1981. The Iran Contra thing was in full swing. Cocaine was also a hot import, and Cuba opened its prisons, and people came by the thousands. I remember being a teenager and seeing the tent cities under the 836 and the 826. When people ask where I am from, I always say, "North Cuba! AKA Miami!"
To me, Florida is a true melting pot of the world. There is no Chinatown or Little Korea. We have parts of Florida known for a particular influx of people. Take Carol City or Overtown, known for its Haitian population. Southwest 8th Street in Miami is known as Little Havana. Every year, the US celebrates Latin Heritage Month from September 15th to October 15th. I get to celebrate it every day.
Today, I embrace the influx of cuisines and cultures to Florida. I find that ethnic cuisine is full of flavor and taste-bud-blowing. Chef Anthony Bourdin said best: "When someone cooks for you, they say something about themselves. They tell you who they are, where they come from, what makes them happy." I genuinely believe this to be so true. When you eat at a restaurant specializing in their country's cuisine, embrace what they cook for you. We should never have a cuisine assimilate itself so much that it loses its origin. The reason why we travel is to try new things and see unique places that we have just read about. Why should we eat American food in Paris? As Americans, we have this notion that we know what a country is known for by its cuisine.
Is that true? Take, for instance, the national dish of Jamaica. Is it Jerk? Nope, not at all. Ask someone from Jamaica, and they will tell you. We have chefs like Michelle Brienstein, who comes from a Cuban-Jewish background, and she has given us Jewban cuisine. Locally, we have Chef Norman Van Aken/Chef Allen Susser, who created "Floribbean cuisine." Floribbean cooking takes cuisine from the Caribbean/South America/Central America/ West Africa. It combines the natural resources of the land and the techniques they have learned from other cultures to create these excellent flavor meals we see today. One of the most American cooking styles is from a little island in the Caribbean. The Taino are indigenous to Puerto Rico and developed a cooking method called Barbacoa, which is not the beef cut but the actual cooking method. The word later became the word we know today as Barbecue or BBQ. Some great, talented chefs have embraced this cuisine and are doing things that would excite your taste buds into a frenzy! How about a guava and cheese rugelach? How about Latin spiced pink shrimp/ Florida fresh corn grits/Florida goat cheese/blistered Florida tomatoes? Have you ever wondered how Jerked Cantonese duck would taste? Well, in Miami, you could find that.
In honor of Latin Heritage Month, we all should embrace the authentic cuisine of Latin America and try something so different that you may find something you love. We may not have the Philly cheese steak, the NY pizza, or the cheesecake, but we have so much flavor that the rest of the country has never had or will have. It is time that Florida makes its mark as a culinary Mecca!
Exposing Food Waste: Unveiling the Guilty Party
In the realm of culinary creations, where flavors dance and ingredients harmonize, there exists a dark shadow that haunts the kitchens of our world. Behold the unveiling of the guilty party behind the masquerade of food waste, a phenomenon as puzzling as a chef seeking a straight squash or zucchini in a world of delightful imperfections.
Picture this: a grand feast laid out before you, each dish crafted with care and skill, only to meet its untimely demise in the clutches of the trash bin. Yes, dear gastronomes, the staggering truth emerges like a soufflé gone awry - in the land of abundance, nearly one-third of the world's food meets a fate sealed in wasteful oblivion.
As we delve deeper into the culinary underworld, a startling revelation emerges from the bustling kitchens of restaurants. Behold, the half-pound specter of food waste per meal, haunting both plate and pantry with reckless abandon. A symphony of flavors doomed to be silenced, as 85% of unused restaurant fare meets a tragic end in the abyss of landfills.
But who, pray tell, is to shoulder the blame for this culinary tragedy of epic proportions? Are we, the culinary maestros, not endowed with the power to stem the tide of wasteful excess? I implore you, fellow chefs, to ponder upon the legacy we leave behind - a legacy not solely measured in Michelin stars or James Beard accolades but in our stewardship of Mother Nature's bountiful gifts.
Let us rise, like a perfectly risen soufflé, to the challenge at hand. Let us embrace the imperfect, the unconventional, and the overlooked in our culinary pursuits. For in the realm of food competitions, why not celebrate ingenuity in waste reduction, turning scraps into masterpieces and leftovers into legends?
Consider the staggering statistics that lie before us, a tapestry woven with the threads of 218 billion dollars in wasted sustenance. Let us not idly stand by as nature's bounty is squandered, but instead, let us wield our knives and ladles with purpose, transforming waste into wonder with each culinary creation.
And to you, dear epicures and epicureans, I extend a challenge - place a five-gallon cambro on your prep table, witness the symphony of waste unfold before your eyes, and embark on a journey towards mindful consumption. Let us not merely savor today's flavors but embrace the responsibility to nurture a sustainable tomorrow.
In this culinary crusade against waste, let creativity reign supreme, and let innovation be our guiding star. Ultimately, as we trim, chop, and simmer our way toward a more sustainable future, we all emerge as victors in the grand feast of life.
#JUSTONESPICE
Everyone, I want to introduce you to an amazing human being. Yes, it is a bromance but that is another conversation! Keith Sarasin is not only an amazing human but a talented chef! He is also extremely passionate about one of my all-time favorite cuisines. No, it’s not pork not bacon, nope. Not even BBQ. He is so passionate about Indian food! Now, there is a reason chefs get upset with yelp reviews. Social media has made everyone a food critic. Then you have this person, Gene. When someone writes about a topic, they should at least have a love for it. You have to be a complete cretin to lump ALL the cuisine of the sub-content of India under curry! In my humble/professional opinion, Indian food has given the rest of the world its love, meaning its flavor. Like Chef Keith says, there are more spices in one side dish in Indian cuisine than most American meals! Shame on you, Washington Post; try having someone that respects cultures and their love of their cuisine! The Post should take someone that hates the Nationals and have them write about how good the team is! Better yet, why don’t you let Gene meet Keith and let him open Gene’s mind to flavors he wishes he could taste forever! Please join me and my brother Keith. Post your favorite indian dish with the hashtag #justonespice Let’s educate the world about this fantastic cuisine!
FLORIBBEAN CUISINE!
I sit here listening to Marc Anthony, and La Boriqena comes on as I write this. It occurs to me that I have always wanted to have a passion for where I lived, as the Cuban/Puerto Rican population does. I was born in North Cuba. Yes, I know what I just typed, but North Cuba is North Miami. I was raised in Hollywood. I never looked at the food of Florida as Florida. It made me search for food in Florida, specifically South Florida. So, I asked you what food Florida is known for. I will wait while you figure out the answer. As you think, I want to throw a wrench in there; it has to come from only Florida, concept, food as in origin. I know I just made it hard, didn’t I?
Let’s look at this another way. If I told you cheesesteak, you would say what? Yup, in your head, you just said Philly! If I say crab cakes, you say what? Let me guess, you mumbled to yourself, Maryland. If I told you mudbugs and a hurricane, you would get my point. Yes, I know you said New Orleans, and you wanted me to acknowledge that. Great job.
Florida – I bet some of you were like – empanadas/patties/Cuban Sandmiches/ropa veja/bistec de Pollo/key lime pie/conch fritters/Bahamian snapper/ceviche/grouper Rueben/coconut shrimp…Now, let me start by typing this: if there is a COUNTRY’S name in the dish, guess what; that’s right, NOT FROM guess where. FLORIDA! Truthfully, almost everything on that list is not from Florida. Hell, we don’t grow key limes here anymore. Key Lime is a mix from when we did grow key limes and French cuisine – it’s a custard pie, folks. Side note: Coconut shrimp, whoever invented this dish, I want to throat-punch you! Does anyone know how much of a pain in the neck those are to make!!!
As I age like spoiled wine, I realize I am one of the luckiest chefs in the world. I live in a melting pot of Latin America! I am sitting on the doorstep of the next biggest thing in cuisine. I have no flipping clue what that is. If you thought it was me, sorry to disappoint. I am sitting here at the table drinking my coffee, watching, and helping to shape what tomorrow’s chefs will be like. I get to play in all of these different cuisines. I can do this because I respect CUISINE, the complete word, as in respecting the culture as well. I have never embraced my culinary upbringing. I am an Ashkenazi Jew and was raised as such. I always thought that the food was too sweet and lacked depth. It wasn’t because my family couldn’t cook; they all cooked. Well, two didn’t, my sister and my cousin Sharon.
Out of culinary school, I drifted to Asian and Italian cuisine. I loved Italian food and the togetherness that most Italian families had. It was similar to my family. Asian, well, it fit because of the trade with the Italians. Hell, if it were not for the Chinese, we would not have pasta!
My culinary journey continued, and I was then side blinded by FIRE! That is right, fire. Where there is fire, there is (yup, I heard you say that in your head)smoke. I fell in love with BBQ. I started taking my training in classical French cuisine/modern cuisine/Asian/Italian, and mixed-in BBQ. I began to realize what the cuisine of Florida is – it is one of many. It is one of the most diverse in the US; yes, I am biased; fight me! With all this diversity comes a tremendous responsibility that chefs need to realize. We need to keep the essence of the food true to its form, not to be hidden away.
Most importantly, we must have balance in each of our dishes. If it is bold, then you should have the yang of that. I am not here to tell you what the answer is; that is for each of you to figure out. Floribbean cuisine owes its beginnings to Chef Allan, Chef Mark, and Chef Norman. It is people like Chef Michelle and others who carry on the torch. It is time for us to celebrate our diversity in our communities. It is time to blend these bold flavors the world has never seen.
Come along on this journey. We will have great libations, mind-blowing flavor profiles, and incredible conversations. Every great story in history has started at a table with food around it. Please have a seat at my table; let’s create the next best adventure! Let’s discover what truly makes Florida cuisine so remarkable and so diverse.
The Kingpin
PLANT-BASED VS. VEGETARIANISM
It all begins with an idea.
What is plant-based? What the heck is the difference between vegetarian and plant-based? Well, that's debatable. We all know a vegan is someone who doesn't eat any animal products at all. I am NOT going down the rabbit hole of PETA and such. You have vegetarians; this is where things get cloudy. There, in layman's terms, those that eat dairy/eggs, fish, no red meat, no pork. It's all made up and based on marketing. Plant-based business is worth $3.3 billion! 1% of the US population identifies as vegan, and another 4% identifies as plant-based or vegetarian. Plant-based is supposedly the cleanest form of vegetarianism. One author defines vegetarians as those who eat processed snacks and such, whereas plant-based eat only whole grains. The bottom line is that plant-based or vegetarianism is a lot healthier for some. It comes down to what your products have in them. If you need a degree in nuclear science to understand the label, step away! Eat healthily, eat full flavors and good fats in moderation. The more color on your plate, the more appealing to your eye, but most of all, your tastebuds! Maybe paleo and keep are the reasons we have a new term - plant-based!
Recently, I posted the pics on another social media platform. A" Vegan" chimed in about how I was promoting vegan when, in fact, the product(s) weren't. It seems that the Impossible Burger isn't vegan. That's right, not vegan. You see, the FDA made the company test the heme on animals to see if it's ok for humans. Now, mind you, the heme comes from beets (plant-based); all the other ingredients are plant-based. I don't mind opinions at all, but I had an issue when you accused me of promoting vegan food when I was promoting plant-based. To focus on how we waste our natural resources/how much produce is thrown away/how we raise our animals,/how much we are dependent upon nitrogen-based fertilizer s. Lastly, why is someone who cares about animal welfare eating a" burger" in the first place? #educateyourself #think
“Most of the defects you never knew about, nor do I think you cared about, because you have a love of bacon..."
It all begins with an idea.
Being the Rabbi of Pork and having #baconcartel, you would think I would know everything about pork and bacon. Truth be known, I see a lot, but I never stop learning about pork. One thing that I pride myself in doing is learning about defects in bacon and the way they happen. Not all bacon is created equally. I know - can you believe that… what you get in the grocery store is not what restaurants get? ;-) Did you know that bacon can have defects? Yes, defects. But, not all deficiencies hamper the taste of the product. These defects include hooks, Lacy (sounds sexy, but it's not), tiger-striped bacon (injection marks), dark spots, and so on.
Two defects that affect the flavor negatively are the following: dark spots are blood ruptures or blood clots; these are the defects that affect the flavor profile of the bacon and are the most serious. Retail bacon is different from wholesale because retail is a mass-produced product, but all the manufacturers are vying for your money. This can lead to the lowest standard denominator product. The manufacturers will overlook blood clots and sell the product as is.
The other defect that affects the flavor profile of bacon is known as an abscess. It is a dark greenish spot within the fat of the bacon. The other area can be affected by an abscess near or below the spare rib part of the bacon. Abscess abnormalities are dead skin or tissue, the blood flow is cut off, and the abscess can grow. So, there you have it, two defects that affect the flavor profile of bacon.
What about the other ones? How do they happen? Well, that is how we produce the bacon. Bacon comes from bellies. Now, look at your belly and then those around you. Not all bellies are created equal. Most bellies, if not all, are put through a machine in a frozen state and then cut. The machine can produce defects like S curves, Hooks, and Dog ears when the belly goes in as it is pushed through. These types of blemishes don't necessarily mean off-tasting but affect the cooking of the product.
In wholesale, there are so many ways bacon is sold. 1) pork belly turns into bacon by going through a process and then being smoked and then cured. Retailers want to get as much product as they can on the shelf as much as possible, and they let the consumer try to figure it out. Wholesale has layout bacon, shingled, different size cut (as in thickness), cooked & slab. Then there is almost every kind of smoke, and do not forget whether it is nitrate-free or uncured. You see, the wonderful USDA says that if you do not use sodium nitrate to cure the product, it has to be called uncured. Some bacon producers are what I consider premiere or shabby chic producers. We will get to them all in later blogs, but let's concentrate on the basics of bacon for now.
Part of how we get a great product is how the animal is raised. Pigs used to be known as "dirty animals" and were considered "disease-ridden." This is part of why my religion (and a couple of others) say they are "unclean." One of those food-borne illnesses that got people sick back in the day was trichinosis. In the US, trichinosis is virtually wiped out, and I'll get into this in detail also in another blog. One thing I should mention (which annoys me and has to do with marketing) pigs, as well as chickens, are never allowed to be given growth hormones, So when you see someone touting this as a reason to buy their product, think of the guy trying to sell you gluten-free water. Why are your US-raised chickens and pigs' growth hormone-free (?) it is federal law! Now, antibiotics are an entirely different thing. If the animal gets sick, they will give the animal antibiotics to get them better. There are other benefits to the farmer from giving antibiotics - again, I'll get into the details in another blog. They let that animal get better and then send it off to get "harvested" (let's be honest, the animal is SLAUGHTERED). If the animal gets spooked, then Lactic acid is produced, and the final product then becomes chewy and develops an "off" flavor. Those Dark Spots or blood spots are just that: the animal got spooked, and then they "harvested" the animal. Sidebar for a sec - we harvest vegetables and fruits we DON'T harvest animals; we raise them and then slaughter them. I will not sugarcoat things, folks: I am going to tell you how it is! That is just me. If you are squeamish about where your food comes from, are here to criticize the process, or those who choose to engage in it or have "virgin ears,"…. go ahead and stop reading now.
So, there are different breeds of pigs, and they are called heritage breeds. Some chefs want only a specific breed. But we can dive deep into heritage breeds and chef's love affairs with them on another blog.
You never knew about most of the defects, nor do I think you cared about them because you have a love of bacon. If you are like me, bacon gives you a lardon as well. Stay tuned for more #baconcartel.
Jeffrey “The Kingpin” Schlissel
AKA “Rabbi” Schlissel